I’ve done it. I’ve finally booked a trip to the pristine Mentawai Islands. Considering I’ve travelled a lot in my years, it’s been a personal failing of mine that I haven’t done a lot of surf travel trips. My best friend drove me to want to go to Bali for the first time in 1981 …
I detailed in my blog post of 16 May 22 my path to developing bursitis and tendinitis in my shoulder across this last summer. It interrupted my surfing for about nine weeks in the end—time enough for the inflammation to die down. In the lead up to that sojourn I was developing another issue that …
So. The 21/22 summer has truly been endless. But my pride has taken a blow. I have never had so many surfs in my life as I have had over the four months from December 21 to April 22. I wouldn’t say it’s been perfect a lot. But there have been average days mixed with …
A surf mission to Tairua at the base of the Coromandel Peninsula had me reflecting on the uncertain nature of our sport. The surf spot cameras on the Internet are often misleading. The reports by their nature more general than specific. They lack the local Point of View that gives you the real, spot-specific lowdown. …
